Oregon Garden Guide: Planting Dates, Frost Dates & Growing Seasons
Oregon’s coastal and inland valleys experience very different frost timing.
In a typical year, the growing season in Oregon runs roughly from April 16 through October 28, giving many parts of the state about 195 frost-free days. Use this page as a statewide baseline, then compare local city pages for more precise planting timing.
Growing Season Snapshot
Oregon is really multiple gardening climates under one name. Western valleys, coast-influenced zones, interior basins, and mountain-framed towns can differ dramatically in spring pace, summer heat, and fall staying power, so crop fit often comes down to whether a location is marine-shaped or continental in feel.
These season boundaries are climate normals, not a forecast. A 50% frost date means a 32°F frost arrives by that date in about half of years — and later in about half. Treat these dates as planning anchors, not guarantees.
Oregon Planting Calendar
A practical guide to when planting usually works in Oregon. These windows are based on climate normals (not a forecast) and line up with the 50% last spring frost and typical early-season heat.
| Crop | Planting Window | Method |
|---|---|---|
| Cool-season / early window Cold-tolerant crops that usually handle cooler spring conditions better. | ||
| Peas | March 19 – April 2 | direct sow |
| Spinach | March 19 – April 2 | direct sow |
| Lettuce | March 26 – April 9 | direct sow / transplant |
| Strawberries | March 26 – April 9 | plant crowns / transplants |
| Carrots | March 26 – April 9 | direct sow |
| Beets | March 26 – April 9 | direct sow |
| Radishes | March 19 – April 2 | direct sow |
| Potatoes | April 2 – April 16 | plant seed potatoes |
| Onions | March 26 – April 9 | sets / transplants |
| Garlic | March 28 – April 7 | plant cloves |
| Broccoli | April 2 – April 16 | transplant |
| Cauliflower | April 2 – April 16 | transplant |
| Cabbage | April 2 – April 16 | transplant |
| Kale | March 23 – April 12 | direct sow / transplant |
| Swiss chard | March 27 – April 16 | direct sow / transplant |
| Main warm-season window Crops that usually do best once frost risk fades and the season starts opening up more fully. | ||
| Beans | April 16 – April 30 | direct sow |
| Sweet corn | April 21 – May 1 | direct sow |
| Cucumbers | April 25 – May 5 | direct sow / transplant |
| Zucchini | April 25 – May 5 | direct sow / transplant |
| Squash | April 25 – May 5 | direct sow / transplant |
| Melons | April 25 – May 5 | direct sow / transplant |
| Watermelons | April 25 – May 5 | direct sow / transplant |
| Basil | April 25 – May 5 | direct sow / transplant |
| Tomatoes | April 25 – May 5 | transplant |
| Peppers | May 2 – May 12 | transplant |
How to use this: aim for the earlier part of each window for the most reliable results. Later planting can still work, but it usually depends more on variety maturity, warmer microclimates, and simple protection like row cover or low tunnels.
Common Timing Mistakes
These patterns show up again and again in Oregon — especially in typical years.
- Planting everything at once instead of staggering crops across the season.
- Assuming conditions are uniform across the region — frost timing often varies widely by elevation, exposure, and shelter.
- Relying on calendar dates instead of crop maturity and typical frost timing.
Frost Dates and Growing Conditions Across Oregon Cities
Growing conditions often vary more within Oregon than most gardeners expect. Differences in elevation, exposure, cold-air drainage, and nearby pavement or buildings can shift frost timing and change how much usable season you really have.
| City | Last spring frost | First fall frost | Frost-free days | Remaining GDD (May 15 → Aug 1, base 50) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bend | Jun 06 | Sep 20 | 106 | 1555 → 760 |
| Medford | Apr 08 | Oct 29 | 204 | 2970 → 1481 |
| Eugene | Apr 11 | Oct 23 | 195 | 2050 → 1049 |
| Salem | Apr 03 | Nov 01 | 212 | 2284 → 1152 |
| Portland | Feb 25 | Dec 01 | 279 | 2380 → 1226 |
| Hood River | May 13 | Oct 03 | 143 | 1455 → 695 |
| Pendleton | Apr 22 | Oct 09 | 170 | 2530 → 1168 |
| La Grande | May 06 | Oct 01 | 148 | 2085 → 982 |
| Corvallis | Apr 17 | Oct 28 | 194 | 2049 → 1042 |
| Albany | Apr 17 | Oct 28 | 194 | 2049 → 1042 |
| Roseburg | Mar 19 | Nov 20 | 246 | 2750 → 1397 |
| Ashland | Jun 08 | Sep 24 | 108 | 2105 → 1010 |
- Frost timing varies widely across the region, especially between colder pockets and more sheltered sites.
- Earlier-frost and shorter-season locations usually need faster-maturing crops and tighter planting timing.
- Warmer locations usually retain more remaining heat through the season, giving longer-season crops and later plantings better odds of finishing.
- Urban areas, walls, and sheltered gardens usually stay warmer than open rural or wind-exposed sites.
- Cold air settles in low spots, so slightly elevated beds often avoid the earliest frosts.
- South- and west-facing areas usually warm sooner in spring and can stay productive later into fall.
How the Growing Season Works in Oregon
Oregon usually has a relatively forgiving season, but results still depend on how quickly gardens warm in spring and how well crop choices match local conditions.
- Stagger planting dates: spreading sowings and transplanting windows often works better than planting everything at once.
- Fall planting is more realistic: many areas still have enough runway for a meaningful second round of faster crops.
- Summer management becomes the limiter: water, fertility, and pest pressure often matter more than season length alone.
Microclimate note: frost timing varies widely across Oregon, so sheltered gardens, urban sites, and warmer exposures can behave very differently from colder open areas.
Late-summer note: there is often still meaningful heat left around early August, so second plantings of faster crops can still be worthwhile.
Remaining Season Heat in Oregon (Base 50 GDD)
Growing Degree Days (Base 50°F) measure heat accumulation. “Remaining GDD” shows how much usable heat is typically still available from a given date onward in a normal season.
| Planting date | Base | Typical GDD still available |
|---|---|---|
| May 15 | 50 | 2040 |
| June 1 | 50 | 1901 |
| July 1 | 50 | 1560 |
| August 1 | 50 | 1014 |
Use these values to judge whether a crop or variety still has enough heat left after planting. This is especially helpful for later sowings, shorter-maturity choices, and deciding whether a second round is realistic.
How Gardeners Adapt
Experienced gardeners in Oregon usually adjust their timing and crop choices to match how the season actually behaves, not just the calendar.
- Using row cover or low tunnels to smooth out temperature swings early and late in the season.
- Succession planting fast crops to keep beds productive through summer.
- Watching local conditions closely and adjusting timing year by year.
Oregon Garden Planning Chart
A practical “typical year” for planning. Use it as a baseline, then adjust for microclimates and variety maturity.
| Stage | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| Early season | Start cold-tolerant crops, prep beds, and pay more attention to soil warmth and night temperatures than to the calendar alone. |
| Main planting | Around April 16, the main planting push usually begins as frost risk fades. Warm-season crops generally perform best when they get established promptly. |
| Peak growth | This is when water, fertility, spacing, and pest pressure have the biggest effect on final yield. |
| Late-summer decisions | There is often enough late-season heat left for a meaningful second round of quick crops. |
| Finish window | Plan to have frost-sensitive crops mostly wrapped up by October 28. Cooling nights often slow crops before the first real frost arrives. |
Typical season length: 195 frost-free days between the median spring and fall frost dates.